Climbing the Quien Sabe Glacier on Sahale Mountain in the North Cascades is a classic and accessible alpine experience that offers a striking blend of glacier travel, stunning scenery, and moderate climbing. Located on the east side of Boston Basin beneath Sharkfin Tower and Sahale Peak, the Quien Sabe serves as a beautiful and direct route to the Sahale Glacier and the summit of Sahale Peak itself. The glacier typically presents moderate snow slopes with crevasse navigation and the occasional steeper step, making it an ideal objective for those looking to hone glacier travel skills in a dramatic alpine setting. Surrounded by jagged granite spires and sweeping views of the Cascade crest, the Quien Sabe Glacier route is a rewarding adventure that captures the essence of North Cascades mountaineering.

  • Dates: Custom, call or email for availability
  • Duration: 3-days (Available as a 4-day combined with Forbidden or Sharkfin Tower)
  • Level: Beginner
  • Client Ratio: 3:1
  • Difficulty: II 5.0 (2-pitches) and Glacier Travel
  • Cost:
  • 1:1 $1,800 per person
  • 2:1 $1,200 per person
  • 3:1 $ 990 per person
  • Included: Park fees, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
  • Not Included:Ground transportation airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, meals while on the mountain, and all personal items

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Day 1, 2,200′ ↑, 3.5~ Miles, 3-5 hours

Begin your trip at the Boston Basin Trailhead, located at approximately 3,600 feet. The approach to low camp is around 3.5 miles and gains about 2,200 feet of elevation. The trail is steep and rugged, weaving through lush old-growth forest before opening into the alpine meadows of Boston Basin. Expect wildflowers, cascading waterfalls, and increasingly dramatic views as you gain elevation. Low camp, situated around 5,800 feet, offers excellent tent sites and stunning vistas of surrounding peaks like Mount Torment and Forbidden Peak. From camp, you’ll be able to preview much of your route for the following day.

Day 2, 2,880′ ↑ 2,880′↓, 2.5~ Miles, 4-6 hours

After a night camped in the upper reaches of Boston Basin or near the toe of the Quien Sabe Glacier, an early start is key. As first light hits the jagged peaks surrounding the basin, you’ll rope up and begin your ascent of the Quien Sabe Glacier. The route typically weaves through moderate slopes with some crevasse navigation, depending on the season and conditions. Expect consistent snow travel, and in late season, potential for exposed ice or larger crevasse crossings. The glacier leads to a high col between Sharkfin Tower and Boston Peak. Some scrambling and two pitches of moderate rock climbing of up to 5.0 lead us to the top of the summit block and one of the most scenic summits in the Cascades with panoramic views of Forbidden Peak, Eldorado, the Ptarmigan Traverse, and far-off volcanoes. After soaking in the views, you’ll descend back to camp.

Day 3, 2,200′↓, 3.5~ Miles, 2-3 hours

Pack up and descend the 3.5-mile trail back to the trailhead, losing approximately 2,200 feet in elevation. While the trail can be steep and loose in places, the descent offers time to reflect on the climb and enjoy one last look back at the dramatic spires and glaciers of Boston Basin.

Alternate descent is to descend down the other side if the mountain down the Sahale Glacier and Sahale Arm into the Cascade Pass trail system, making for a scenic and classic North Cascades loop. This route offers a full alpine experience with moderate technical demands in one of the range’s most stunning environments.

Optional 4 day program: For teams looking to extend the adventure, a fourth day can be used to climb Sharkfin Tower or Forbidden Peak (on day 39th) before walking out.

The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a standout route renowned for its knife-edge ridge climbing on impeccable granite. It involves glacier travel to reach the base, then several pitches of low-5th class climbing with airy exposure and incredible views in every direction. The rock is clean, the protection is good, and the position is unbeatable. Though it’s not overly technical, the length and complexity of the route, combined with the descent, make it a full alpine day.

Sharkfin Tower offers a shorter but equally aesthetic climb, with high-quality 5th class granite and striking exposure throughout. It begins with glacier travel and a short rock approach before leading to several classic pitches on the Northeast Ridge. Sharkfin is often considered one of the best short alpine rock climbs in the range, and its summit views of Boston Basin and the surrounding glaciers are spectacular.

Both routes provide a worthy finish to a North Cascades trip, giving climbers a chance to tie together glacier skills and technical rock movement in some of the most inspiring terrain in the range.

MULTI-DAY ALPINE CLIMBING EQUIPMENT LIST

Our recommended clothing system has four layers.

  • Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (synthetic or merino wool)
  • Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well.
  • Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable.  (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
  • Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)

These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.

Climbing Gear

  • Adjustable Trekking Poles
  • Alpine Climbing boots Full shank crampon compatible leather, synthetic, or hybrid boot depending on climb and season.Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid and late-summer climbs on Mount Baker and in the North Cascades when conditions are expected to be dry.
  • Rock shoes
  • Alpine climbing harness  Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing and can be put on with ski boots
  • Ice Axe – Lightweight (50–70 cm)
  • Crampons with anti-ball plate  Must be fit to boots prior to trip,
  • Climbing helmet  Adjustable, should fit with hat on
  • Belay Device
  • 4 locking carabiners –  2 Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended and 2 smaller locking screwgate
  • 4 regular carabiners (e.g. small wire gate are recommended)
  • 1 double length sling
  • 1 single length sling
  • 1 Cordelette 6 mil 18-20’(6-7 meters)
  • 1 12” Prussik or Hollow Block*

Upper Body

Lower Body

 

Sleeping Gear

  • Sleeping bag Rated to at least 20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
  • Sleeping pad 1 closed cell foam and/or Neo-Air for extra warmth and comfort.

Backpack

  • Internal frame pack 3500-4500 cubic inch capacity able to carry snowboard/skis

Miscellaneous Equipment

  • Sunglasses 100% UV protection with side shields or wrap around.
  • Personal first aid repair kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, and batteries etc.
  • Lip balm At least SPF 20
  • Sunscreen At least SPF 40
  • Headlamp lightweight LED
  • 2 water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
  • Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
  • Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
  • Toiletry kit Be sure to include WAG Bag or toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
  • Bandana
  • Hand wipes
  • Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)

 

WHO WILL MY GUIDE (OR GUIDES) BE?

We are small company who enjoy working together in the mountains as well as highly skilled professionals who hold current Wilderness First Responder certification and are proficient in technical rescue and evacuation skills. Our guides are dedicated to the world of alpinism, many having first ascents and hold professional certifications with the AMGA in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines. The AMGA is part of the IFMGA, which is the international body of certified mountain guides.

HOW MUCH SHOULD I TIP MY GUIDES?

Tipping is considered standard practice in the guiding industry. Tipping amounts vary – so $20-30 per day per person/per guide is average that works well for the guides without a serious blow to your wallet. Often 10% of the course cost is a good rule-of-thumb. If you feel that the program was exceptional or substandard the tip can reflect that.

CAN I RENT EQUIPMENT FROM BCAG?

No, for these trips we strongly suggest to buy your equipment due to obscenely large rental costs for trip of this length.

HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE?

Day trips will keep your pack between 10-15 pounds max.

WHEN DO I NEED TO PAY THE BALANCE OF MY TRIP?

For Scheduled Domestic Courses and Climbs: Your balance is due 60 days from trip departure. Payable by check, Credit Card with service charge or Venmo.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I NEED TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

If you should decide to cancel your trip, BCAG must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date we receive written notice. You will be assessed a cancellation fee according to the following schedule:

90 to 31 days from trip departure – 50% of trip cost

30 days or less – 100% of trip cost

WHAT HAPPENS IF BC ADVENTURE GUIDES HAS TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

In the rare circumstance where we need to cancel a program you can reschedule without a fee or receive a refund on your deposit. If circumstances arise that force us to cancel a program that is already in progress, we reserve the right to decide whether a refund or credit, at a prorated rate, will be issued. We are not responsible for cancellation fees or costs arising from your changed or cancelled flights, lodging, or other arrangements. We strongly recommend obtaining trip cancellation insurance from your travel agent.