The Sulphide Glacier route on Mount Shuksan is a true North Cascades classic, offering an unbeatable blend of moderate glacier travel, stunning scenery, and an iconic summit. With its long, flowing approach across wildflower meadows and open heather benches, the climb builds steadily toward the dramatic pyramid-shaped summit, which towers above the sprawling Sulphide Glacier. The final scramble up the summit pyramid—whether snow or rock—adds just the right amount of alpine spice, and the 360-degree views from the top, including Mount Baker and the Picket Range, are some of the most awe-inspiring in the range. Ideal for newer alpinists and rewarding for experienced climbers alike, the route delivers a full alpine experience in a remote and beautiful setting.

  • Dates: Custom, call or email for availability
  • Duration: 3-days
  • Level:  Beginner – Intermediate
  • Client Ratio: 3:1
  • Difficulty: II+ 5.0 Glacier Travel
  • Cost:
  • 1:1 $1,800 per person
  • 2:1 $1,200 per person
  • Included: Park fees, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
  • Not Included: Ground transportation airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, meals while on the mountain, and all personal items

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Day 1 – Hike to High Camp
2,800′↑, ~5 miles, 4–6 hours
From the Shannon Ridge Trailhead near Baker Lake (~2,600 ft), begin the well-maintained forest trail that gradually steepens as it ascends through old-growth forest and slide alder. After about 3 miles, the route breaks into open meadows with increasingly expansive views of Mount Shuksan’s dramatic summit pyramid. Continue along the Shannon Ridge trail, navigating heather benches and a few short scrambles before reaching high camp at around 5,400 ft near the toe of the Sulphide Glacier. Camp here offers sweeping views of the North Cascades and a clear vantage of the route ahead.

Day 2 – Summit via the Sulphide Glacier
3,400′↑, 3,400′↓, ~6 miles, 8–11 hours
Start early to ascend the Sulphide Glacier, roping up as needed depending on crevasse conditions. The glacier offers a long, moderate climb with slopes generally ranging from 20–35 degrees. After gaining approximately 3,000 vertical feet, reach the base of the summit pyramid at around 8,600 ft. Depending on snow coverage and season, climb the 3rd to low 5th class rock or steep snow to reach the summit of Mount Shuksan at 9,131 ft. After soaking in one of the best views in the North Cascades, descend carefully via the same route and return to camp for a well-earned rest.

Day 3 – Return to Trailhead
2,800′↓, ~5 miles, 3–4 hours
Enjoy a relaxed morning at camp before packing up and retracing your steps down Shannon Ridge. The descent offers one last opportunity to appreciate the stunning views of Shuksan’s summit pyramid and the heavily glaciated terrain before re-entering the forest. Arrive back at the trailhead by early afternoon with tired legs and big alpine smiles.

MULTI-DAY ALPINE CLIMBING EQUIPMENT LIST

Our recommended clothing system has four layers.

  • Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (synthetic or merino wool)
  • Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well.
  • Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable.  (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
  • Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)

These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.

Climbing Gear

  • Adjustable Trekking Poles
  • Alpine Climbing boots Full shank crampon compatible leather, synthetic, or hybrid boot depending on climb and season.Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid and late-summer climbs on Mount Baker and in the North Cascades when conditions are expected to be dry.
  • Rock shoes
  • Alpine climbing harness  Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing and can be put on with ski boots
  • Ice Axe – Lightweight (50–70 cm)
  • Crampons with anti-ball plate  Must be fit to boots prior to trip,
  • Climbing helmet  Adjustable, should fit with hat on
  • Belay Device
  • 4 locking carabiners –  2 Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended and 2 smaller locking screwgate
  • 4 regular carabiners (e.g. small wire gate are recommended)
  • 1 double length sling
  • 1 single length sling
  • 1 Cordelette 6 mil 18-20’(6-7 meters)
  • 1 12” Prussik or Hollow Block*
Upper Body
Lower Body

Sleeping Gear

  • Sleeping bag Rated to at least 20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
  • Sleeping pad 1 closed cell foam and/or Neo-Air for extra warmth and comfort.

Backpack

  • Internal frame pack 3500-4500 cubic inch capacity able to carry snowboard/skis

Miscellaneous Equipment

  • Sunglasses 100% UV protection with side shields or wrap around.
  • Personal first aid repair kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, and batteries etc.
  • Lip balm At least SPF 20
  • Sunscreen At least SPF 40
  • Headlamp lightweight LED
  • 2 water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
  • Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
  • Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
  • Toiletry kit Be sure to include WAG Bag or toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
  • Bandana
  • Hand wipes
  • Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)

WHO WILL MY GUIDE (OR GUIDES) BE?

We are small company who enjoy working together in the mountains as well as highly skilled professionals who hold current Wilderness First Responder certification and are proficient in technical rescue and evacuation skills. Our guides are dedicated to the world of alpinism, many having first ascents and hold professional certifications with the AMGA in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines. The AMGA is part of the IFMGA, which is the international body of certified mountain guides.

HOW MUCH SHOULD I TIP MY GUIDES?

Tipping is considered standard practice in the guiding industry. Tipping amounts vary – so $20-30 per day per person/per guide is average that works well for the guides without a serious blow to your wallet. Often 10% of the course cost is a good rule-of-thumb. If you feel that the program was exceptional or substandard the tip can reflect that.

CAN I RENT EQUIPMENT FROM BCAG?

No, for these trips we strongly suggest to buy your equipment due to obscenely large rental costs for trip of this length.

HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE?

Your pack will weigh between 30-40 pounds.

WHEN DO I NEED TO PAY THE BALANCE OF MY TRIP?

For Scheduled Domestic Courses and Climbs: Your balance is due 60 days from trip departure. Payable by check, Credit Card with service charge or Venmo.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I NEED TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

If you should decide to cancel your trip, BCAG must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date we receive written notice. You will be assessed a cancellation fee according to the following schedule:

90 to 31 days from trip departure – 50% of trip cost

30 days or less – 100% of trip cost

WHAT HAPPENS IF BC ADVENTURE GUIDES HAS TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

In the rare circumstance where we need to cancel a program you can reschedule without a fee or receive a refund on your deposit. If circumstances arise that force us to cancel a program that is already in progress, we reserve the right to decide whether a refund or credit, at a prorated rate, will be issued. We are not responsible for cancellation fees or costs arising from your changed or cancelled flights, lodging, or other arrangements. We strongly recommend obtaining trip cancellation insurance from your travel agent.