Climbing Mount Logan via the Fremont Glacier is a true North Cascades wilderness adventure—remote, committing, and stunningly scenic. With a long approach through old-growth forest and alpine meadows to a high camp beneath sweeping glaciers, the route offers solitude and immersion in one of the wildest corners of the range. The glacier ascent itself is moderate in difficulty but dramatic in scale, with crevasse navigation, shifting light on vast snowfields, and expansive views of jagged surrounding peaks. Topping out on the 9,087-foot summit, entirely within the boundaries of North Cascades National Park, is deeply rewarding—few places in the Cascades feel so removed, vast, and wild.

  • Dates: Custom, call or email for availability
  • Duration: 3-days
  • Level: Advanced
  • Client Ratio: 3:1
  • Difficulty: II 5.0 Glacier Travel
  • Cost:
  • 1:1 $1,800 per person
  • 2:1 $1,200 per person
  • Included: Park fees, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
  • Not Included:Ground transportation airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, meals while on the mountain, and all personal items

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Day 1 – Hike to High Camp in upper Thunder Creek Basin
5,000′↑ ~10–12 miles, 6–9 hours

Begin your journey from the Thunder Creek Trailhead at Colonial Creek Campground (~1,200 feet). Hike the Thunder Creek Trail for approximately 8 miles before turning up into upper Thunder Basin via a steep, faint climber’s trail near Fisher Creek Camp. From here, the terrain becomes more rugged as you ascend talus slopes, heather benches, and moraine toward a high camp below the Fremont Glacier around 6,200–6,500 feet. Expect a big day with significant mileage and gain, but be rewarded with solitude and stunning views of Mount Logan’s rugged profile, the massive Douglas and Fremont Glaciers, and the surrounding remote peaks of the North Cascades.

Day 2 – Climb Mount Logan via the Fremont Glacier Route
3,100′↑ 3,100′↓ ~6–7 miles, 8–12 hours

Start early from camp and ascend the lower Fremont Glacier, typically roping up for glacier travel. The route winds up broad low-angle terrain before steepening as you climb toward the Logan–Middle Peak col. From the col, continue up moderately angled snow or ice slopes, navigating crevasse fields and possible bergschrunds near the summit plateau. The final summit push typically involves snow slopes and a short bit of rock or mixed scrambling to reach the 9,087-foot summit of Mount Logan—the highest peak entirely within North Cascades National Park. Enjoy commanding views of remote peaks like Goode, Boston, and Buckner before carefully retracing your route back to high camp.

Day 3 – Hike Out to Thunder Creek Trailhead
5,000′↓ ~10–12 miles, 5–7 hours

Break camp and reverse your route down into Thunder Creek Basin, descending steep trails, meadows, and forest back to the main Thunder Creek Trail. While long, the hike out is scenic and satisfying, with views of glacial valleys, alpine ridges, and turquoise creeks keeping your attention on the way back to Colonial Creek and your vehicle.

MULTI-DAY ALPINE CLIMBING EQUIPMENT LIST

Our recommended clothing system has four layers.

  • Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (synthetic or merino wool)
  • Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well.
  • Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable.  (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
  • Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)

These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.

Climbing Gear

  • Adjustable Trekking Poles
  • Alpine Climbing boots Full shank crampon compatible leather, synthetic, or hybrid boot depending on climb and season.Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid and late-summer climbs on Mount Baker and in the North Cascades when conditions are expected to be dry.
  • Approach Shoes after mid July
  • Alpine climbing harness  Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing and can be put on with ski boots
  • Ice Axe – Lightweight (50–70 cm)
  • Crampons with anti-ball plate  Must be fit to boots prior to trip,
  • Climbing helmet  Adjustable, should fit with hat on
  • Belay Device
  • 4 locking carabiners –  2 Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended and 2 smaller locking screwgate
  • 4 regular carabiners (e.g. small wire gate are recommended)
  • 1 double length sling
  • 1 single length sling
  • 1 Cordelette 6 mil 18-20’(6-7 meters)
  • 1 12” Prussik or Hollow Block*
Upper Body
Lower Body

Sleeping Gear

  • Sleeping bag Rated to at least 20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
  • Sleeping pad 1 closed cell foam and/or Neo-Air for extra warmth and comfort.

Backpack

  • 40-50 liter capacity 

Miscellaneous Equipment

  • Sunglasses 100% UV protection with side shields or wrap around.
  • Personal first aid repair kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, and batteries etc.
  • Lip balm At least SPF 20
  • Sunscreen At least SPF 40
  • Headlamp lightweight LED
  • 2 water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
  • Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
  • Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
  • Toiletry kit Be sure to include WAG Bag or toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
  • Bandana
  • Hand wipes
  • Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)

WHO WILL MY GUIDE (OR GUIDES) BE?

We are small company who enjoy working together in the mountains as well as highly skilled professionals who hold current Wilderness First Responder certification and are proficient in technical rescue and evacuation skills. Our guides are dedicated to the world of alpinism, many having first ascents and hold professional certifications with the AMGA in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines. The AMGA is part of the IFMGA, which is the international body of certified mountain guides.

HOW MUCH SHOULD I TIP MY GUIDES?

Tipping is considered standard practice in the guiding industry. Tipping amounts vary – so $20-30 per day per person/per guide is average that works well for the guides without a serious blow to your wallet. Often 10% of the course cost is a good rule-of-thumb. If you feel that the program was exceptional or substandard the tip can reflect that.

CAN I RENT EQUIPMENT FROM BCAG?

No, for these trips we strongly suggest to buy your equipment due to obscenely large rental costs for trip of this length.

HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE?

Day trips will keep your pack between 10-15 pounds max.

WHEN DO I NEED TO PAY THE BALANCE OF MY TRIP?

For Scheduled Domestic Courses and Climbs: Your balance is due 60 days from trip departure. Payable by check, Credit Card with service charge or Venmo.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I NEED TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

If you should decide to cancel your trip, BCAG must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date we receive written notice. You will be assessed a cancellation fee according to the following schedule:

90 to 31 days from trip departure – 50% of trip cost

30 days or less – 100% of trip cost

WHAT HAPPENS IF BC ADVENTURE GUIDES HAS TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

In the rare circumstance where we need to cancel a program you can reschedule without a fee or receive a refund on your deposit. If circumstances arise that force us to cancel a program that is already in progress, we reserve the right to decide whether a refund or credit, at a prorated rate, will be issued. We are not responsible for cancellation fees or costs arising from your changed or cancelled flights, lodging, or other arrangements. We strongly recommend obtaining trip cancellation insurance from your travel agent.