The North Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a classic, full-value alpine route that offers everything from steep snow climbing to razor-thin rock ridge exposure in one of the most dramatic settings in the North Cascades. Starting with a long snow and ice approach—typically around 10 pitches of two-tool climbing on slopes up to 60 degrees, with the occasional steeper step—the route builds steadily in intensity before gaining the sharp crest of the North Ridge itself. From there, climbers follow an elegant knife-edge of granite all the way to the summit, with sweeping views and exciting exposure the entire way. This route is typically done as a carryover, meaning we travel light but self-sufficient, carrying all our overnight gear as we traverse one of the most spectacular ridgelines in the range. Day 1 – Hike to Low Camp in Boston Basin 2,200′↑ ~3.5 miles, 3–5 hours Begin your trip at the Boston Basin Trailhead, located at about 3,600 feet. The trail climbs steeply through forest and avalanche paths, crossing streams and gaining elevation quickly. After about 3.5 miles and 2,200 feet of gain, you’ll reach low camp around 5,800 feet, nestled in alpine meadows beneath towering peaks like Sharkfin Tower, Mount Torment, and Forbidden Peak. With easy access to water and views of the Quien Sabe Glacier and Boston Glacier cirque, it’s an ideal base for launching into more technical terrain. Day 2 – Cross Sharkfin Col and Boston Glacier, Climb to North Ridge Bivy 3,200′↑ ~2 miles, 6–9 hours Leave camp early and ascend the Quien Sabe Glacier to Sharkfin Col, where a short rappel or downclimb drops you onto the massive, crevassed Boston Glacier. Cross this impressive sheet of ice beneath Forbidden’s north face, making your way up to the steep and exposed Forbidden Glacier leading to the base of the North Ridge. From here, climb approximately 10 pitches of steep snow and alpine ice—up to 60° with a few steeper steps—to gain the North Ridge proper. A spectacular exposed bivy awaits on a flat perch along the ridge, offering incredible sunset views and a truly wild setting. Day 3 – Climb North Ridge to Summit, Descend West Ridge and Hike Out 1,000′↑ 5,200′↓ ~6 miles, 10–14 hours From your bivy site, climb the final section of the North Ridge—a beautifully exposed granite arete offering classic, moderate rock climbing on excellent stone with massive exposure. Upon reaching the 8,815-foot summit, take time to soak in panoramic views before descending via the West Ridge, downclimbing and rappelling technical sections. After regaining Boston Basin, continue your descent back to the trailhead. This full-value alpine traverse is one of the most spectacular and committing climbs in the range. MULTI-DAY ALPINE CLIMBING EQUIPMENT LIST Our recommended clothing system has four layers. These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use. Climbing Gear Sleeping Gear Backpack Miscellaneous Equipment WHO WILL MY GUIDE (OR GUIDES) BE? We are small company who enjoy working together in the mountains as well as highly skilled professionals who hold current Wilderness First Responder certification and are proficient in technical rescue and evacuation skills. Our guides are dedicated to the world of alpinism, many having first ascents and hold professional certifications with the AMGA in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines. The AMGA is part of the IFMGA, which is the international body of certified mountain guides. HOW MUCH SHOULD I TIP MY GUIDES? Tipping is considered standard practice in the guiding industry. Tipping amounts vary – so $20-30 per day per person/per guide is average that works well for the guides without a serious blow to your wallet. Often 10% of the course cost is a good rule-of-thumb. If you feel that the program was exceptional or substandard the tip can reflect that. CAN I RENT EQUIPMENT FROM BCAG? No, for these trips we strongly suggest to buy your equipment due to obscenely large rental costs for trip of this length. HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE? Day trips will keep your pack between 10-15 pounds max. WHEN DO I NEED TO PAY THE BALANCE OF MY TRIP? For Scheduled Domestic Courses and Climbs: Your balance is due 60 days from trip departure. Payable by check, Credit Card with service charge or Venmo. WHAT HAPPENS IF I NEED TO CANCEL MY TRIP? If you should decide to cancel your trip, BCAG must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date we receive written notice. You will be assessed a cancellation fee according to the following schedule: 90 to 31 days from trip departure – 50% of trip cost 30 days or less – 100% of trip cost WHAT HAPPENS IF BC ADVENTURE GUIDES HAS TO CANCEL MY TRIP? In the rare circumstance where we need to cancel a program you can reschedule without a fee or receive a refund on your deposit. If circumstances arise that force us to cancel a program that is already in progress, we reserve the right to decide whether a refund or credit, at a prorated rate, will be issued. We are not responsible for cancellation fees or costs arising from your changed or cancelled flights, lodging, or other arrangements. We strongly recommend obtaining trip cancellation insurance from your travel agent.
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