The East Ridge of Forbidden Peak is the least-traveled of the mountain’s three classic ridges, but it delivers an equally spectacular and rewarding alpine experience. This airy and engaging route climbs up and over a series of sharp gendarmes, weaving along a jagged ridgeline of solid granite with incredible exposure and nonstop views. Though less famous than the West or North Ridges, the East Ridge offers wild, high-quality climbing in a more secluded setting—perfect for those seeking classic North Cascades adventure with a little more solitude and just as much wow factor.

  • Dates: Custom, call or email for availability
  • Duration: 3-days (Available as a 4-day combined with Sharkfin Tower or Sahale Mountain)
  • Level: Intermediate to Advanced
  • Client Ratio: 2:1
  • Difficulty: III 5.8 (12-pitches)
  • Cost:
  • 1:1 $1,800 per person
  • 2:1 $1,200 per person
  • Included: Park fees, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
  • Not Included:Ground transportation airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, meals while on the mountain, and all personal items

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Day 1 – Hike to High Camp in Boston Basin 3,800’↑ ~3.5 miles, 3–6 hours

Begin your journey at the Boston Basin Trailhead, starting around 3,600 feet. The trail climbs steeply and steadily through dense forest and brush, crossing streams and navigating rocky sections as it ascends into the heart of the alpine. After approximately 3.5 miles and 3,800 feet of elevation gain, you’ll arrive at high camp, typically located near 6,400 feet on heather benches and moraines just below the Quien Sabe and unnamed Glaciers. The views open up dramatically as you approach camp, revealing the towering peaks and spires that line the basin. This high camp provides an ideal staging area for climbs on Forbidden and Sharkfin Tower, with close access to glacier travel and a truly spectacular alpine ambiance.

Day 2 – Climb Forbidden Peak via the East Ridge, Descend West Ridge 3,500’↑ 3,500’↓ ~4.5 miles, 10–14 hours

Start early for an adventurous and less-traveled alpine objective: climbing Forbidden Peak via its dramatic East Ridge. From high camp in Boston Basin, cross the Quien Sabe Glacier and gain the ridge by climbing through broken rock benches and snow slopes. The East Ridge itself offers sustained and exposed climbing on clean Skagit gneiss, weaving up and over a series of sharp gendarmes with sections of 4th and low 5th-class movement. With jaw-dropping exposure and wild alpine ambiance, the East Ridge is a hidden gem among the classic routes on Forbidden. Upon reaching the 8,815-foot summit, take in sweeping views of the North Cascades before descending the popular West Ridge route. The descent involves careful downclimbing, rappels, and glacier travel, eventually circling back to your high camp in Boston Basin after a full-value alpine day.

Day 3- Return Home 3,500‘↓ 3.5 miles, 2-3 hours

Pack up and descend the 3.5-mile trail back to the trailhead, losing approximately 3500 feet in elevation. While the trail can be steep and loose in places, the descent offers time to reflect on the climb and enjoy one last look back at the dramatic spires and glaciers of Boston Basin.

Optional Day 4: For teams looking to extend the adventure, a fourth day can be used to climb Sahale Mountain or Sharkfin Tower, depending on experience and objectives. Sahale is an excellent moderate glacier climb with stunning views and a short rock scramble to the summit. It’s a great option for newer alpine climbers or those looking for a more relaxed summit day. Sharkin Tower, on the other hand, is a little more involved North Cascades classic III 5.6 6-7 pitch route . Both options offer unforgettable experiences and are well worth the extra day for those with the time, fitness, and skill to take them on.

MULTI-DAY ALPINE CLIMBING EQUIPMENT LIST

Our recommended clothing system has four layers.

  • Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (synthetic or merino wool)
  • Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well.
  • Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable.  (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
  • Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)

These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.

Climbing Gear

  • Adjustable Trekking Poles
  • Alpine Climbing boots Full shank crampon compatible leather, synthetic, or hybrid boot depending on climb and season.Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid and late-summer climbs on Mount Baker and in the North Cascades when conditions are expected to be dry.
  • Rock shoes
  • Alpine climbing harness  Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing and can be put on with ski boots
  • Ice Axe – Lightweight (50–70 cm)
  • Crampons with anti-ball plate  Must be fit to boots prior to trip,
  • Climbing helmet  Adjustable, should fit with hat on
  • Belay Device
  • 4 locking carabiners –  2 Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended and 2 smaller locking screwgate
  • 4 regular carabiners (e.g. small wire gate are recommended)
  • 1 double length sling
  • 1 single length sling
  • 1 Cordelette 6 mil 18-20’(6-7 meters)
  • 1 12” Prussik or Hollow Block*
Upper Body
Lower Body

Sleeping Gear

  • Sleeping bag Rated to at least 20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
  • Sleeping pad 1 closed cell foam and/or Neo-Air for extra warmth and comfort.

Backpack

  • Internal frame pack 3500-4500 cubic inch capacity able to carry snowboard/skis

Miscellaneous Equipment

  • Sunglasses 100% UV protection with side shields or wrap around.
  • Personal first aid repair kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, and batteries etc.
  • Lip balm At least SPF 20
  • Sunscreen At least SPF 40
  • Headlamp lightweight LED
  • 2 water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
  • Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
  • Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
  • Toiletry kit Be sure to include WAG Bag or toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
  • Bandana
  • Hand wipes
  • Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)

WHO WILL MY GUIDE (OR GUIDES) BE?

We are small company who enjoy working together in the mountains as well as highly skilled professionals who hold current Wilderness First Responder certification and are proficient in technical rescue and evacuation skills. Our guides are dedicated to the world of alpinism, many having first ascents and hold professional certifications with the AMGA in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines. The AMGA is part of the IFMGA, which is the international body of certified mountain guides.

HOW MUCH SHOULD I TIP MY GUIDES?

Tipping is considered standard practice in the guiding industry. Tipping amounts vary – so $20-30 per day per person/per guide is average that works well for the guides without a serious blow to your wallet. Often 10% of the course cost is a good rule-of-thumb. If you feel that the program was exceptional or substandard the tip can reflect that.

CAN I RENT EQUIPMENT FROM BCAG?

No, for these trips we strongly suggest to buy your equipment due to obscenely large rental costs for trip of this length.

HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE?

Day trips will keep your pack between 10-15 pounds max.

WHEN DO I NEED TO PAY THE BALANCE OF MY TRIP?

For Scheduled Domestic Courses and Climbs: Your balance is due 60 days from trip departure. Payable by check, Credit Card with service charge or Venmo.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I NEED TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

If you should decide to cancel your trip, BCAG must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date we receive written notice. You will be assessed a cancellation fee according to the following schedule:

90 to 31 days from trip departure – 50% of trip cost

30 days or less – 100% of trip cost

WHAT HAPPENS IF BC ADVENTURE GUIDES HAS TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

In the rare circumstance where we need to cancel a program you can reschedule without a fee or receive a refund on your deposit. If circumstances arise that force us to cancel a program that is already in progress, we reserve the right to decide whether a refund or credit, at a prorated rate, will be issued. We are not responsible for cancellation fees or costs arising from your changed or cancelled flights, lodging, or other arrangements. We strongly recommend obtaining trip cancellation insurance from your travel agent.