The North Ridge of Eldorado Peak is a spectacular and airy 5.6 alpine rock climb on excellent granite, offering thrilling exposure in a breathtaking setting and finishing with the classic descent down the knife-edge East Ridge. Despite its moderate technical grade, the route delivers full-value alpine exposure, weaving along a sharp ridge line of solid stone with expansive views in every direction. The climbing is engaging but never overwhelming, making it perfect for those seeking a memorable yet approachable alpine rock objective. Topping out on Eldorado’s iconic summit, climbers then descend the equally unforgettable East Ridge, a stunning snow knife-edge that adds a classic alpine flourish to an already incredible experience.

  • Dates: Custom, call or email for availability
  • Duration: 3-days
  • Level: Intermediate
  • Client Ratio: 3:1
  • Difficulty: II 5.6 (700ft), steep and exposed snow
  • Cost:
  • 1:1 $1,800 per person
  • 2:1 $1,200 per person
  • Included: Park fees, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
  • Not Included:Ground transportation airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, meals while on the mountain, and all personal items

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ITINERARY

3-Day Itinerary for Climbing the East Ridge of Eldorado Peak (8 miles round trip, ~6,800 feet vertical gain)

Day 1 – 5,400′ ↑, 4~ Miles, 6-8 hours:

From the Eldorado Creek trailhead (approx. 2,100 ft elevation), begin the strenuous approach with a steep bootpack through dense forest, a log crossing of Eldorado Creek, and a long ascent up talus, slabs, and heather benches. Climb roughly 4 miles and gain around 5,300 feet to reach the stunning high camp on the edge of the Eldorado Glacier at around 7,400 feet. The effort pays off with breathtaking views of the Inspiration Glacier, surrounding peaks, and one of the most scenic alpine camps in the Cascades.

Day 2 – ~1,400′ ↑ 1,400′↓, 2 ~ Miles, 3-5 hours:

Begin early by roping up and traversing across the upper Eldorado Glacier and through the East Ridge camp, then swing around and cross the expansive Inspiration Glacier toward the base of the North Ridge. The climbing begins on clean, solid granite and follows an airy and exposed 5.6 ridge crest with incredible positions and nonstop views across the heart of the North Cascades. After topping out on Eldorado’s summit at 8,868 feet, descend the spectacular East Ridge, savoring the knife-edge snow arete before returning to high camp for the night.

Day 3– 5,400′↓, 4~ Miles, 4-6 hours: Break camp and descend the same -mile route, losing 5,300 feet back to the trailhead. Expect a long, knee-jarring descent through boulders and forest, but with satisfied legs and unforgettable memories from one of the most scenic climbs in the range.

 

MULTI-DAY ALPINE CLIMBING EQUIPMENT LIST

Our recommended clothing system has four layers.

  • Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (synthetic or merino wool)
  • Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well.
  • Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable.  (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
  • Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)

These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.

Climbing Gear

  • Adjustable Trekking Poles
  • Alpine Climbing boots Full shank crampon compatible leather, synthetic, or hybrid boot depending on climb and season.Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid and late-summer climbs on Mount Baker and in the North Cascades when conditions are expected to be dry.
  • Rock shoes
  • Alpine climbing harness  Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing and can be put on with ski boots
  • Ice Axe – Lightweight (50–70 cm)
  • Crampons with anti-ball plate  Must be fit to boots prior to trip,
  • Climbing helmet  Adjustable, should fit with hat on
  • Belay Device
  • 4 locking carabiners –  2 Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended and 2 smaller locking screwgate
  • 4 regular carabiners (e.g. small wire gate are recommended)
  • 1 double length sling
  • 1 single length sling
  • 1 Cordelette 6 mil 18-20’(6-7 meters)
  • 1 12” Prussik or Hollow Block*
Upper Body
Lower Body

 

Sleeping Gear

  • Sleeping bag Rated to at least 20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
  • Sleeping pad 1 closed cell foam and/or Neo-Air for extra warmth and comfort.

Backpack

  • Internal frame pack 3500-4500 cubic inch capacity able to carry snowboard/skis

Miscellaneous Equipment

  • Sunglasses 100% UV protection with side shields or wrap around.
  • Personal first aid repair kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, and batteries etc.
  • Lip balm At least SPF 20
  • Sunscreen At least SPF 40
  • Headlamp lightweight LED
  • 2 water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
  • Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
  • Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
  • Toiletry kit Be sure to include WAG Bag or toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
  • Bandana
  • Hand wipes
  • Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)

 

WHO WILL MY GUIDE (OR GUIDES) BE?

We are small company who enjoy working together in the mountains as well as highly skilled professionals who hold current Wilderness First Responder certification and are proficient in technical rescue and evacuation skills. Our guides are dedicated to the world of alpinism, many having first ascents and hold professional certifications with the AMGA in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines. The AMGA is part of the IFMGA, which is the international body of certified mountain guides.

HOW MUCH SHOULD I TIP MY GUIDES?

Tipping is considered standard practice in the guiding industry. Tipping amounts vary – so $20-30 per day per person/per guide is average that works well for the guides without a serious blow to your wallet. Often 10% of the course cost is a good rule-of-thumb. If you feel that the program was exceptional or substandard the tip can reflect that.

CAN I RENT EQUIPMENT FROM BCAG?

No, for these trips we strongly suggest to buy your equipment due to obscenely large rental costs for trip of this length.

HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE?

Day trips will keep your pack between 10-15 pounds max.

WHEN DO I NEED TO PAY THE BALANCE OF MY TRIP?

For Scheduled Domestic Courses and Climbs: Your balance is due 60 days from trip departure. Payable by check, Credit Card with service charge or Venmo.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I NEED TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

If you should decide to cancel your trip, BCAG must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date we receive written notice. You will be assessed a cancellation fee according to the following schedule:

90 to 31 days from trip departure – 50% of trip cost

30 days or less – 100% of trip cost

WHAT HAPPENS IF BC ADVENTURE GUIDES HAS TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

In the rare circumstance where we need to cancel a program you can reschedule without a fee or receive a refund on your deposit. If circumstances arise that force us to cancel a program that is already in progress, we reserve the right to decide whether a refund or credit, at a prorated rate, will be issued. We are not responsible for cancellation fees or costs arising from your changed or cancelled flights, lodging, or other arrangements. We strongly recommend obtaining trip cancellation insurance from your travel agent.