The Matterhorn is the most iconic peak in the Swiss Alps. This climb offers incredible scenery, the luxury of well-maintained huts, and fabulous food – making this adventure into what we like to call a “climbing holiday.” Climbers acclimatize hiking and climbing around the famous peaks of Zermatt, which will also give your guides a chance to assess your skills and prepare you for the ascent of the Matterhorn. From the Hornli hut, we ascend the classic Hornli Ridge, 4,000′ of moderate and exposed alpine climbing terrain to the 14,697-foot summit!
- Duration: 5 Days
- Level: Intermediate
- Client Ratio: 1:1
- 5 Day – 1:1 $2,000 for just the guide service; $2,495 *see below
- two nights at the huts (marked R in the itinerary for refuge)
- group gear,
- breakfast & dinner at the huts (marked B & D in the itinerary)
- international airfare
- hotel accommodations
- lunch during the day and meals in town
- gondola fees
- personal gear and other items of a personal nature
- additional charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of the guide
- staff/guide gratuities
Day 0:Travel day: Hotel Alpenblick or hotel of your choice- Check in to your hotel.
Service begins in the morning, day one of the itinerary.
Day 1: Zermatt – Your guide meet you at your hotel in Zermatt. You climb a nearby peak in the surrounding area for acclimatization. H
Day 2: Summit Alpine Peak – We take the gondola and either climb Pollux (4092 meters or 13,421 feet), Zinal Rothorn, or one of the glacier peaks south of the Schoenbuehel Hut. These classics, exposed alpine routes offer rewarding beautiful views of the surrounding Swiss Alps and lead to very airy summits. Tonight will be spent at the Val D’ayas Hut. R
Day 3: Summit Breithorn – In preparation for the Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn, we climb the classic half traverse of the Breithorn (4165 meters or 13,650 feet). This classic and exposed high alpine route traverses a knife edge ridge of similar difficulty but takes less time than the Hornli Ridge route. We descend to the Breithorn Pass and back to Zermatt. H
Day 4: Hornli Hut – We travel to Zermatt and take the gondola to Schwarzsee. A two-three hour hike to 13,123 feet rewards us with breathtaking views of the Alps before we spend the night at the Hornli hut. R
Day 5: Matterhorn Summit – We ascend the original Whymper route up the Hornli Ridge to reach the summit of one of the most photographed mountains in the Alps, the Matterhorn. We ascend the exposed ridge that involves a 3rd and 4th class rock scramble and some delayed 5th class steps. After negotiating a section of snow and ice, we reach the summit at 14,687 feet. We will descend back to Zermatt via telepherique after our descent. H
WILL MY GUIDE (OR GUIDES) BE?
Pablo Puruncajas is our Alps Lead Guide
HOW MUCH SHOULD I TIP MY GUIDES?
Tipping is considered standard practice in the guiding industry. Tipping amounts vary – so $15-20 per day per person/per guide is average that works well for the guides without a serious blow to your wallet. Often 10% of the course cost is a good rule-of-thumb. If you feel that the program was exceptional or substandard the tip can reflect that.
CAN I RENT EQUIPMENT IN ZERMATT?
Yes, everything can be found in Zermatt. Quantities are limited so please contact us as soon as possible if you are interested.
HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE?
You will carry 10-15 pounds, which will include everything on the equipment list.
WHEN DO I NEED TO PAY THE BALANCE OF MY TRIP?
Payable when you make your reservation by check or credit card.
WHAT HAPPENS IF I NEED TO CANCEL MY TRIP?
If you should decide to cancel your trip, BCAG must be notified in writing. Your trip will be canceled from the date we receive written notice. You will be assessed a cancellation fee according to the following schedule:
90 to 22 days from trip departure – 50% of trip cost
30 days or less – 100% of trip cost
WHAT HAPPENS IF I WANT TO CHANGE THE DATES OF MY TRIP?
Schedule changes are subject to a $50 fee per person up to 2 weeks out and $100 less than 14 days from the start of the trip and may not be possible. If conditions or circumstances preclude running a scheduled program we reserve the right to make the decision as to whether the program will be canceled, rescheduled, or an alternative provided.
WHAT HAPPENS IF BC ADVENTURE GUIDES HAS TO CANCEL MY TRIP?
In the rare circumstance where we need to cancel a program, you can reschedule without a fee or receive a refund on your deposit. If circumstances arise that force us to cancel a program that is already in progress we reserve the right to decide whether a refund or credit, at a prorated rate, will be issued. We are not responsible for cancellation fees or costs arising from your changed or canceled flights, lodging, or other arrangements. We strongly recommend obtaining trip cancellation insurance from your travel agent.
DO I NEED TO PURCHASE TRIP INSURANCE?
BCAG highly encourages the purchasing of trip cancellation and travel insurance on domestic trips and requires it on International trips. Europeans and Canadians use it because travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delays, medical expenses and emergency assistance.
Several options include Travelex or Travel Guard International at (1-877-248-8992) & www.travelguard.com for protecting your investment, however, there are many companies to choose from and you may wish to do some individual research regarding which policy is right for you.
WHEN SHOULD I PLAN TO LEAVE A RETURN HOME?
We often get this question because most people need to know how much total time they need to take off work. Our Itinerary includes travel days.
- Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
- 2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
- 2 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
- Ice axe Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
- Leather mountaineering boots Must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
- Crampons with anti-ball plate,
- Climbing helmet should fit with hat on
- Adjustable trekking poles
- Synthetic T-shirt
- Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
- Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
- Soft Shell with hood
- Mid-Weight Down/Synthetic Jacket (with hood)
- Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
- 1 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
- 1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
- Shell gloves Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams.
- Warm hat Wool or synthetic
- Buff or Balaclava
- Shade hat or baseball cap
- 2 Pair heavy wool/synthetic socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
- 1 Pair lightweight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
- 1 Pair soft shell pants Schoeller fabrics
- 1 Pair nylon shorts For July/Aug, running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
- Shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
- Gaiters Make sure they will fit over your boots.
- Internal frame pack 2000 cubic inch capacity
- Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)
- Personal first aid kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc. Check out OR
- Lip balm At least SPF 20
- Sunscreen At least SPF 40
- Headlamp (e.g. Petzl or Black Diamond)
- 2 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
- Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
- Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
- Camera Optional; large SLR types are not recommended
- Ear plugs Blocks out snoring hut-mates
- Food breakfast and dinner is provided at the huts. You must provide your own lunches
- 1 Duffel bag city clothes can be left at the hotel.
- Passport & plane ticket make a copy of your passport and keep it in a separate place from your passport.