Eldorado Peak Climb

  • Duration: 3 Days
  • Level: Beginner – Advanced
  • Client Ratio: 2:1-4:1
  • Cost:
    • East Ridge – $695
    • Northwest Ice Couloir – $1050
    • Dorado Needle – $1050
    • Early Morning Spire – $1050
  • Included: All meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
  • Not Included: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, ground transportation hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
Call (206) 799-4092 to book this trip!

Located in the North Cascades National Park, Eldorado Peak climb is famous for its knife edge summit ridge and its’ unsurpassed views. Approaching via the Eldorado Glacier, climbers have ample opportunity to practice their glacier mountaineering skills before reaching the exposed East Ridge. From here climbers take in the views of Forbidden Peak, Sahale Peak, Mt. Buckner, Mt. Shuksan, and the rest of the North Cascades. Don’t forget your camera!

The mountain’s abundant alpine terrain makes Eldorado an ideal location to learn and review snow and glacier travel skills. Our goal is to give you hands-on experience, while teaching fundamental and introductory mountaineering skills. The experiences and skills developed on Eldorado will prepare you for more advanced alpine climbing courses and give valuable insight into developing skills for climbing throughout the world. Eldorado is a recommended conditioning or training climb in preparation for other Cascade volcanoes, Denali, Huascaran, Aconcagua, and other high altitude peaks.

 

Day 1: We drive from Seattle to the trailhead and head up Eldorado Creek for a strenuous hike to high camp on the Eldorado Glacier. We will start out in dense forest then pass through alpine meadows and clusters of Mountain Hemlock before climbing to a saddle with beautiful views of Johannesburg, Forbidden the Cascade Crest. We will also have time to discuss in detail the aspects of the climb necessary for safety and efficiency.

Day 2: The second day is dedicated to teaching the essentials of glacier travel. The day begins with learning basic climbing skills, ice axe usage, self arrest, and balance positioning. We spend the afternoon learning and practicing ice axe technique and self arrest, roped team travel, route finding, hazard assessment with an introduction to crevasse rescue. The remainder of the evening is spent making final preparations for the next day’s summit attempt.

Day 3: After an alpine start (~2:00 am) we climb up and on our way toward the summit. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes from three to six hours to reach the summit. From the top at 8,868 feet, we have stunning views of the morning sunlight rising above distant peaks. After descending, we will rest in camp and bask in the glory of the North Cascades. We then descend the climbing route, rearrange our ropes to descend back across the Inspiration and Eldorado Glaciers, and arrive back at our camp. After a quick snack, we break camp, head down the mountain, and arrive back at the trailhead by 4 or 5 p.m.

Day 1: We drive from Seattle to towards Cascade Pass and the Eldorado Creek trailhead. Approximate drive time is 2.5 hours. The hike to our camp on the Inspiration Glacier takes about 5-7 hours and strategically positions us at the start of these classic routes.

Day 2-3: Climb Northwest Ice Couloir on Eldorado. Hike out and drive back to Seattle.

Day 1: We drive from Seattle to towards Cascade Pass and the Eldorado Creek trailhead. Approximate drive time is 2.5 hours. The hike to our camp on the Inspiration Glacier takes about 5-7 hours and strategically positions us at the start of these classic routes.

Day 2-3: Climb Dorado Needle (difficulties up to 5.7). Hike out and drive back to Seattle.

Day 1: We drive from Seattle to towards Cascade Pass and the Eldorado Creek trailhead. Approximate drive time is 2.5 hours. The hike to our camp on the Inspiration Glacier takes about 5-7 hours and strategically positions us at the start of these classic routes.

Day 2-3: Climb Early Morning Spire (several pitches of 5.8-5.9 and a lot of low to mid-fifth class). Hike out and drive back to Seattle.